The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's electric 1990s creative scene, progressing from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy."

While Enninful may seem wistful, he is not the only one. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. But since that time, Enninful feels a significant change. "I believe, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is hard to ignore: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the pushback against social awareness, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the late 90s, now a more divisive political personality stands as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

In Enninful's view, the antidote has always been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of influential figures from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he says, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this moment will pass."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He draws solace in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I had no concept what that was."

His formative years would define a pioneering career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"When you ignore huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his creative company EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

In contrast to the popular image of fashion editors as loud and highly strung, Enninful is calm and exudes calm. His path has included its share of adversity, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also undergone serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, not working, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to do everything that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to be defined narrowly has inspired him away from the realm that established him. He is now curating a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Galleries often failed to celebrate the truly innovative creators because they did not have the right pedigree," he states.

The magazine 72 itself uses a different strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Now, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a proof to the power of defying expectations.

How would the Edward of the 90s react to the his current self? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was sceptical of institutions. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We lost our home, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."